How To Use A Bone Folder

How To Use A Bone Folder: 5 Skills Everyone Should Know

You can use a bone folder to score, crease, burnish, shape, and tear any paper. It plays a significant role in bookbinding, card making, origami, and other papercrafts that need perfect lines.

Using one is reasonably simple, and it will make your papercrafts a lot easier!

The Five Bone Folder Skills

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Scoring

Scoring prepares the paper for folding.

When the paper has a grain, it is better to score and fold along it rather than across it.

Usually, you will use a bone folder with a pointed end when scoring. This lets you create the force needed to compress the paper.

Why score paper?

You score paper to control folding. Scored paper is less likely to buckle or crack when folded. The fold will be straighter and neater than it would be without a scoreline.

When should you score?

Always score before folding. Also, both scoring and folding work better when you work along the paper’s grain and not across it.

What should you score?

Scoring helps most with heavyweight paper like cardstock and paperboard because larger caliper paper and stiffer paper resist folding.

Anytime you have paper greater than 6 pt (0.006in 0.15mm), it is a good idea to score before folding. This is especially true when you have printed material, like a pamphlet. Scoring reduces the likelihood the ink will crack when folded.

As a rule, the thicker the paper, the wider the score.

Do you need a guide?

It helps to have a guide when scoring. It eases creating a straight line.

Often you will have to make several passes before completing the score. It is much easier to go back over the same score when you use a guide.

A metal ruler is a great addition to your papercrafting kit. Not only does it give you a straight edge to score along, but it also gives you a sharp edge to fold along.

Types Of Scoring

Crush Score
Crush Score

A crush score compresses or crushes the paper creating a dent. The score usually indents the material about halfway through its thickness.

You can make a crush score on any paper product over 10pt (0.010in or 0.25mm). However, the score is not effective on materials with a high degree of memory, like synthetics, because it will not hold.

You make a crush score with a bone folder by scoring the paper on a hard surface. This supports the paper so it can be compressed.

Cut Score
Cut Score

You make a cut score by cutting a line halfway through the material.

It works well for any material that has a high degree of memory. Plus, it lets durable materials fold more easily.

You should not use a cut score on paper because it exposes interior fibers, which causes a line of missing color in printed areas.

Rule And Die Score
Rule and Die Score

A rule and die score creates a distinctive shape. The front side of the score forms an indented groove. The backside of the score forms a raised ridge.

You make a rule and die score with a bone folder in either of two ways.

First, use a soft surface when scoring. It allows the paper to form the characteristic raised ridge on the backside of the score. Only use the method with a paper 10pt (0.010in or 0.25mm) or above.

Second, use a scoring board when scoring. A scoring board is a die, usually made of plastic, with many parallel grooves. The bone folder is the rule. Use the bone folder to push the paper down into a groove in the die. Thus you create the characteristic indent on the front and the raised ridge on the backside of the score. It is used with paper under 10pt (0.010in or 0.25mm).

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Creasing

A crease is a line formed in the paper by folding and pressing. The bone folder can create sharp creases or simply a well-defined fold.

Creasing is one of the bone folder skills used extensively in bookbinding, card making, quilling, paper flower making, and origami.

When making a crease, you may want to use two additional tools besides the bone folder. The first is a ruler. It helps control long folds or folds in heavyweight material. The second is a lightweight cover sheet of paper. It helps to reduce or eliminate accidental burnishing.

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Creasing Without A Scored Line

If your paper is lightweight, you may crease without first scoring a line. The technique is usually used to fold rectangular pieces of paper in half. But it can be used with any shape paper or to create a fold anywhere.

Folding in half

Match the corners of the page to make sure the edges align properly. Hold the edges firmly together by pressing down on your work surface. Then take the long edge of the bone folder to form the fold. Start about a third of the way up the fold. Gently press the paper as you move it along the fold. Then change directions and finish forming the fold. Finish by making one or more passes to sharpen the crease.

Folding along any line

The process is very similar to folding in half. Determine the two ends of the fold. You may want to mark these with a pencil. Once you have determined the fold line, lay the paper on your work surface and fold along the line. Take the bone folder, using the same one-third two-thirds folding technique from above to complete the fold. Finish by making one or more passes to sharpen the crease.

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Creasing With A Scored Line

Once you have scored the paper(see above), you use the scored line to form a fold.

Basic fold

First, flip the paper over so the reverse side faces up. Place it on your work surface. Then, using the bone folder, make the initial fold along the scored line.

Hold the edges of the paper down. Then fold the paper along the scored line using the same one-third two-thirds folding technique(see above).

Finally, make one or more passes with the bone folder pressing the fold flatter until you form a sharp crease.

Folding with a ruler

If you have heavyweight paper, you can use a ruler and bone folder to help create the fold.

First, flip the paper over so the reverse side faces up. Place it on your work surface. Then position a ruler along the scored line. Hold the ruler firmly in place with one hand.

Next, slide the bone folder under the page, running the pointed tip of your bone folder along the length of the ruler.

Repeat pressing the paper firmly against the ruler until you form a right angle.

Then remove the ruler and fold the paper along the scored line using the same one-third two-thirds folding technique(see above).

Finally, make one or more passes with the bone folder pressing the fold flatter until you form a sharp crease.

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How to avoid burnishing the paper

When forming a sharp crease, you may accidentally burnish the paper. You can tell when you have burnished the paper because it becomes shinier along the crease.

Control the pressure

When making a sharp crease, press firmly enough to create the finished edge but do not crush the paper. Crushing the paper compresses the fibers, which creates a shiny appearance.

Use a cover sheet

You can prevent accidental burnishing by placing a cover sheet of light paper over the fold before sharpening the crease. The paper sheet will absorb the compression, thus protecting your project from burnishing.

Change bone folder material

If you use a bone folder made of very hard material like steel, you are more likely to burnish the paper. By changing to softer materials like bone or bamboo, you will reduce the risk of burnishing. Also, you can switch to materials like Delrin that are slicker. They tend to be easier on paper because they do not drag as much.

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Burnishing

Burnishing is the process of rubbing any paper with a tool, like a bone folder, to compress the fibers or smooth its surface.

You can burnish paper before applying colors like paints and pastels. Also, you can burnish after you have applied colors or adhesives.

Since burnishing changes the physical characteristics of the paper, it can be used to strengthen paper for mechanical operations like folding. Also, it can be used to enhance its strength for paper construction.

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Compressing the paper’s fibers

When you burnish paper you are pressing or squeezing it. The individual fibers in the paper are forced closer together. Consequently, the paper becomes denser, stiffer, and stronger.

Part of the reason scoring is helpful is the fibers in the score have been compressed by burnishing. This makes the paper stiffer and stronger along the scored line. So it directs the forces along the score which helps control folding, creasing, and tearing.

Compressing also helps with paper construction. By selectively stiffening the paper, you can enhance its structural strength.

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Smoothing the paper’s surface

One purpose of burnishing paper is to smooth the paper’s surface.

The surface texture of any paper is called tooth. Generally, the more tooth paper has, the rougher it feels. Conversely, the smoother it feels the less tooth it has.

The more tooth a paper has the greater its bite. It is easier to make colors like pastels stick to paper with good bite because the teeth help break off tiny pieces of color and hold them in the paper’s surface crevices.

Burnishing changes the physical characteristics of the paper. Burnished paper tends to be less absorbent. Colors, like inks and paints, tend to sit on the surface of the paper after it is burnished and do not penetrate into the paper fiber. Likewise, burnishing also makes paper slicker, so pastels and colored pencils do not stick as easily.

You can also burnish after applying color pencil, oil crayons, or wax crayons. When you do it makes the colors darker and shinier because it spreads the color around filling in the surface crevices.

It also changes the reflectance of the paper. When you burnish paper you reduce the tooth. So the paper is not as rough. This means more light can bounce back off the page rather than being scattered at the surface. Because of its increased reflectance, the burnished paper looks shinier than unburnished paper.

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Setting decoupage and appliqués

When you make decoupage you glue lightweight or tissue paper to a surface. So it is not unusual to trap air bubbles.

You can use a bone folder to help release the trapped air. Rub the tool over the surface to compress the paper. By working from the center to the edges you will push out air bubbles and make the paper stick better.

Use steady even pressure to ease the bubble out so you don’t tear the paper.

A similar problem arises with adhesive appliqués.  Once again use the bone folder to release trapped air by working from the center to the edges.

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Shaping

Shaping transforms the paper from a flat two-dimensional sheet into a three-dimensional structure by compressing, stretching, and twisting the paper fibers.

Paper shaping techniques are used in many paper crafts, such as origami, paper flower making, paper tole, sculpting, quilling, modeling, and gift wrapping.

There are specialized tools and shaping techniques for each one. But there are three basic techniques you can use with the bone folder.

Shaping against a surface

These techniques use a soft backing material, usually foam, to guide and control the shape. First, place the paper on the backing. Then you press the bone folder against the paper. By adjusting the pressure, you control the amount of deformation.

Valley fold technique

The technique uses the sharp end of the bone folder to press the paper against the backing. It creates a valley fold. The shaping line can be curved or straight.

For example, you use the technique when forming the veins in paper flower leaves. The vein is more pronounced at the base of the leaf. So you will press deeper at the base. Also, veins tend to curve slightly. So you use a somewhat curved shaping line.

Cupping technique

The technique uses the blunt end of the bone folder to press the paper against the backing. It creates a broad depression or cup. The cup can be irregularly shaped or symmetric.

For example, you use the technique when forming the petals in paper flower petals. Place the petal face down on the backing and press in a circular motion to cup the petals.

Freehand curling

This technique uses your fingers to guide and control the shape. The paper will always curl towards the bone folder. So there are two ways to perform the method.

Bone folder behind the paper

Hold the bone folder in your hand. Place the paper on the long edge and press your thumb against it. Then holding the paper with your other hand, pull the bone folder to curl the paper. You can control the amount of curling by the pressure of your thumb.

Since the paper is on top of the bone folder, it will curl away from you.

Bone folder in front of the paper

Hold the bone folder in your hand, placing the paper on the bottom of the long edge. Use your fingers to hold the paper against the bone folder. Then holding the paper with your other hand, pull the bone folder to curl the paper. Press the bone folder with your thumb to control the amount of curling.

Since the paper is on the bottom of the bone folder, it will curl toward you.

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Tearing

Bone folders started out their lives as a bookbinder tool. Now they are used in a large number of papercrafts.

Knife Tear

A bookbinder starts out rough-sizing a text block using a bone folder. Once the paper is folded, and creased insert the bone folder between the leaves. Holding it at an angle, use the bone folder like a knife to cut the paper along the fold. You will push the bone folder out and away from yourself. This will leave a torn edge along the creased line.

Stress Tear

You can tear thicker paper using a bone folder and a metal ruler. First, score and fold the paper. Then crease it with the bone folder. Now reverse the process. Fold the paper in the opposite direction, creasing it a second time. This technique stresses and breaks the paper’s fibers.

You can repeat folding and creasing until the paper is weakened along the crease line. Then place the metal ruler along the crease. While pressing down on the ruler, pull the page from the corner. The page will tear along the ruler guided by the crease.

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